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Trucks stall on the road to this plateau 16,597 feet up in the Atacama
Desert, where scientists are installing one of the world’s largest
ground-based astronomical projects. Heads ache. Noses bleed. Dizziness
overcomes the researchers toiling in the shadow of the
Licancabur volcano. “Then there’s what we call ‘jelly legs,’ ” said Diego García-Appadoo, a
Spanish astronomer studying galaxy formation. “You feel shattered, as if
you ran a marathon.”
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